Vintage reissues have been a consistent feature of the watch world for over a decade. Whether it’s Rolex Daytonas that develop tropical patina, or Audemars Piguet’s skeletonised dials that oxidise and change colour, vintage references have found appeal with many style enthusiasts.
When choosing a new watch band, it’s important to consider the overall size and design of your watch. Larger, modern watches often require bulkier bands to match their proportions. However, for those with a collection of classic or vintage watches, the size and style of the band can make a significant difference in the overall look. Bands that are more delicate and narrower in design are typically found on smaller or vintage timepieces, which helps maintain the elegant and timeless appeal of these watches.
But what makes a watch qualify as neo-vintage?
The Bund Strap
Designed to provide comfort and protection, the Bund strap is a unique watch accessory that has gained popularity in recent years. Originally created for military pilots, the strap features an additional layer of leather lining between the watch caseback and the wearer’s wrist.
This extra layer of leather prevents the caseback from coming into direct contact with the skin, protecting it from extreme temperatures that can occur while flying. Additionally, the leather cuff provides a comfortable fit for the wearer and offers a stylish appearance that is perfect for casual and formal occasions alike.
The leather strap is typically crafted from high-quality materials, ensuring durability and longevity. It is also available in a variety of colors and styles to accommodate different watches. The supple leather also conforms to the wearer’s wrist, providing a snug and comfortable fit. Additionally, the strap can be trimmed to match the size of the watch’s case, allowing it to blend seamlessly with the overall look of the timepiece.
Bund straps are a great addition to any watch collection, especially those that feature vintage-inspired pieces. The unique design of the strap adds a touch of personality to any watch, and the leather material is durable enough to stand up to everyday wear and tear. Additionally, the strap’s cuff-style design helps to protect the watch from scratches and scrapes while it is in use.
While it may seem like a simple watch accessory, the Bund strap has a storied history that dates back to the early days of aviation. The strap was originally designed to help pilots endure the extreme temperatures that can occur while flying, and the extra layer of leather helped to prevent the watch from coming into direct contact with the skin.
Recently, the strap has become a popular choice among watch enthusiasts thanks to Jason Heaton (of TGN Podcast and Hodinkee fame). He has been showcasing Bund straps on his Instagram, and they have quickly gained popularity as an alternative to NATO and other classic straps. The strap is crafted from world-famous Horween leather and unlined for a comfortable wearing experience. In addition, the strap is reversible, making it easy to change the look of your watch.
The Leather Strap
Watch straps may seem like a minor detail, but they have a significant impact on the visual appeal and personality of a timepiece. They are, in fact, one of the most important pieces to choose when purchasing a vintage watch. Changing the leather strap on a vintage Hamilton Intra-matic, IWC Portuguese or Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso can transform it from a modern dress watch into a classic piece that can be worn with both casual and formal attire.
The type of leather used for a watch strap also has a major effect on its durability and long-term quality. Top grain or full-grain leather is considered the highest quality, and it’s this leather that makes up the vast majority of vintage watch straps on sale today. This kind of leather has a natural, soft texture and is very durable. In addition, it ages beautifully, with the grain of the leather becoming more prominent as the strap ages.
Other types of leather used for vintage watch straps include suede and nubuck. These leathers have a more dynamic, smooth texture that is softer and more comfortable to wear than the typical pebbled or porous suede of most standard watch straps. In addition, these leathers are often backed with a more durable, high-performance synthetic material to add both longevity and resistance to perspiration and other external factors.
Padding is another important factor that contributes to the long-term durability of leather watch straps. The padding in a leather strap is typically made from an anti-allergenic material to help prevent the formation of blisters on the wrist. The padding is then glued and stitched to the watch strap, with LIC artisans using only the highest-quality thread for this delicate process.
While many watches come with their original factory-supplied strap, there will come a time when watch fans decide to change the look of their vintage watch by swapping out the original strap for something new and different. For this reason, it’s a good idea to keep a selection of different vintage watch straps on hand for those times when you want to switch up the look of your timepiece.
The Buckle Strap
The bracelets that hold your watch on your wrist might seem like the unsung heroes of horology. They aren’t the most prominent features of a watch, but they play just as big of a role in making or breaking the aesthetic appeal of your vintage timepiece. They also play a crucial part in the narrative that connects us to the legacy of watchmaking.
Bracelet design is a delicate balance between form and function. Achieving the perfect blend of materials and styles is an art all its own, with iconic bracelets that are recognized as much for their style as they are for their quality and durability. Many of these styles have been around for years and continue to be embraced by modern collectors. This enduring popularity makes it easy to see why the revival of these classic straps is such a hit.
One of the most popular vintage strap styles is the buckle strap. These straps feature a prong-style buckle that secures the belt in place with small openings along the belt strap to accommodate the buckle “pin.” Buckle straps are available in a wide variety of designs, including antique styles, and they’re suitable for any timepiece with lug widths that can accommodate a buckle.
These straps can be customized to the specific length required by the wearer, so you’re able to create a look that complements your vintage watch perfectly. This option is ideal for those who prefer a more understated look and is particularly suited to watches with lugs that are smaller. For this reason, the buckle strap is a great choice for vintage Rolex watches.
In addition to the classic buckle strap, there are other classic bracelets that have risen to popularity thanks to their timeless aesthetics and durable construction. These include the Rolex Jubilee, Oyster, and President bracelets, which are considered a symbol of luxury and status. They’re also available in a range of colors and styles to suit any lifestyle.
The revival of these classic straps is a testament to the enduring power of horological style. These bands accentuate the beauty of vintage timepieces and connect us with the rich heritage that watches have a long history of telling stories about the world we live in. If you’re looking for a strap that can do both, the non-stitch suede strap from CNS Watch Bands is the perfect solution. This style is a classic and fashionable addition to any timepiece, respecting the legacy of vintage styles while also appealing to contemporary fashion sensibilities.
The Canvas Strap
The strap that holds your watch on your wrist may seem like a minor detail, but it’s often what makes the entire look of the piece. Engineered for resilience and comfort, these woven bands can add a touch of rustic elegance to casual ensembles, or serve as an unexpectedly subtle fashion statement that seamlessly blends with a variety of styles.
Canvas straps are typically made from a tight-woven cotton fabric that can sometimes be blended with long staple and short stable fibres. This helps them to be both durable and breathable, making them ideal for outdoor wear. They also tend to be a bit softer on the skin than nylon straps, while remaining extremely comfortable during extended wear. In addition, they offer a more structured feel than leather straps and are commonly found in earthy and neutral tones that complement rustic aesthetics as well as a variety of casual wardrobes.
These straps are also easy to care for, as they can usually be rinsed and air-dried when wet. They’re a great choice for everyday use and are especially popular with tool watches, but can also be worn with a wide range of other types of vintage watches as well as contemporary styles.
One problem that can be encountered with these early straps is the fact that many of them feature fixed wire lug fittings, which are too narrow to accept a conventional band or strap. Fortunately, there are some options for these types of cases, including cuff straps that can be fitted to them, or the use of small vice or pliers to compress and work the end through the gap.
Ultimately, the choice of a canvas watch strap comes down to personal preference. It’s important to remember that these bands can’t be used with very formal attire and can be a little more difficult to clean and maintain than leather or nylon straps. However, for those who are willing to invest the time and effort, these straps can offer a classic and rugged look that will stand out in any situation.
